Hvar Sailing Guide I Yacht Charter Croatia

A Sailor’s Guide to Hvar: Anchorages, Marinas & Hidden Gems

Hvar may be Croatia’s most glamorous island, but it’s also one of its most captivating for sailors. Just a short sail from Split, it stretches like a sun-drenched ribbon across the Adriatic, offering a mix of lively harbors, hidden coves, and the fragrant hillsides that have made it famous. Lavender fields, vineyards, and old stone villages dot its interior, while offshore, the Pakleni Islands scatter like stepping stones into turquoise waters.

Hvar has been shaped by trade, conquest, and a love of the good life. Venetian fortresses still guard its ports, while waterfront promenades hum with cafés and yachts from every corner of the world. The island’s coastline is a study in contrasts; marinas in Hvar Town and Stari Grad give way to quiet bays where you might be the only boat at anchor. For sailors, it’s a playground of routes and rhythms, best explored without a strict plan. This guide takes you around the island, inlet by inlet, port by port, drawing on years of first-hand passages in all kinds of weather. It’s not a postcard. It’s a skipper’s-eye view of Hvar, from the quay, the deck, and the open sea.

The North Side of Hvar

The northern coast of Hvar is the island’s calm counterweight. While the south draws the party boats and paparazzi, the north remains grounded, quiet harbors, sheltered inlets, and towns with deep roots. It’s where you go when you want a protected mooring, low wind exposure, and time to breathe. This coast is also home to Hvar’s most protected natural harbor (Stari Grad), one of the prettiest marinas in Dalmatia (Vrboska), and a laid-back hub perfect for families or provisioning (Jelsa).

Stari Grad – Oldest Town, Safest Harbor

Stari Grad (literally “Old Town”) has been welcoming ships since the 4th century BC. It sits tucked deep inside a long bay, arguably the safest natural harbor in all of Croatia, making it the preferred choice for captains seeking shelter when the Bura or Jugo starts to stir.

Mooring Details

Long town quay: water, electricity, mooring lines
Depth: 2.5–5m, depending on the position
Excellent shelter from all wind directions
Can accommodate boats up to 40m
In the high season, a reservation is needed

Town

Flat and walkable
Quiet, old stone alleys filled with fig trees, shutters, and cats
Right behind the quay lies Stari Grad Plain (UNESCO site), a checkerboard of olive groves and vineyards laid out by Greeks over 2,000 years ago
Good access point for inland car tours, especially for visiting the inland village of Dol
Possible scooter or bicycle rentals
Optional visit to military tunnels on Cape Kabal
Calm, convenient, no nightlife
Great central location to explore the rest of the island (town of Hvar, Jelsa, Vrboska)

Where to Eat

Antika – Classic Dalmatian cooking in a charming stone courtyard | +385 99 798 1734
La Gitana – Croatian fusion | +385 99 638 8467
Eremitaž – On the waterfront, casual, good wine list | +385 91 542 8395

For an authentic experience: book dinner inland at Konoba Kokot in Dol (+385 91 511 4288) – traditional slow-cooked dishes in a tiny hill village.

Vrboska – The little Venice of Hvar

Small, striking, and remarkably protected, Vrboska is a sailor’s favorite. Nicknamed “Little Venice” for its narrow canal and old bridges, the village has a fairytale feel. It's also home to a modern, quiet ACI marina surrounded by pine forests.

Mooring Options

ACI Marina Vrboska: Excellent facilities, very protected, calm even in a storm
Water, electricity, toilets, laundry; short walk to town
Town quay: Limited moorings with power/water; depth around 2.5–3.5m. Cheaper than ACI, but a reservation is needed.
Anchoring outside is possible in calm weather, but space is tight

Vibe

Tranquil, no loud music, no rowdy bars
Very picturesque town
Cycling routes along the coast and olive paths inland
Short scooter ride to inland wine estates (Duboković wine tasting is a must-try)

Where to Eat

Bonaca – Local grill with excellent octopus salad | +385 91 720 0074
Trica Gardelin – Traditional Mediterranean restaurant | +385 21 774 280

Jelsa – Buzz Without the Noise

The easternmost harbor of the north coast, Jelsa, is small but full of life, cafés, bakeries, wine shops, and a mix of tourists and locals. Unlike Hvar, it’s not flashy. But it moves at its rhythm, and many skippers appreciate the combination of good shelter and good vibes.

Mooring Options:

Town quay with mooring lines, water, and electricity
Depth: 2.5–4.5m
Protected in most winds, except very strong NE
Can fill quickly in summer—arrive early or call ahead

Vibe

Great for a provisioning day: small Konzum, bakeries, fruit market
Small wine museum, local art galleries
Excellent launching point for scooter exploration inland and toward the south coast
The nearby Tomić winery offers the overall best wine-tasting experience on the island.

Where to Eat

Me and Mrs Jones – Fine dining on the water | +385 99 423 9455
Konoba Vrisnik – Traditional peka, 15 minutes taxi ride | +385 91 578 7351

Northern coves of Hvar

Bay Parja

Anchorage: Suitable for anchoring in the southeastern part of the bay
Depth: 8-10 meters, the rest is a bit too deep
Protection: Offers shelter from most winds, except from the northern sector. As the cove is narrow, strong jugo tend to funnel
Great swimm stop

Bay Pribinja

Anchorage: The eastern arm provides excellent, sheltered anchorage.
Mooring: Several mooring buoys are maintained by Konoba Ringo (+385 91 510 3686). Great food and an excellent place to spend a quiet night
Facilities: A Nearby grocery at the camping sitw

Why Pribinja: The cheapest and quietest option to visit Hvar. Free bouy if dinning and 20 euro taxi to zhe old town of Hvar for the night of fun.

Bay Tiha

Great swimm stop. One of the best waters on the island of Hvar. Turquoise waters.
Dining: Tiha Lounge & Bar (+385 98 928 2090) offers a tranquil, bohemian-inspired setting with Dalmatian cuisine, including grilled fish, meat platters, octopus, and peka.
Three bouys to spend a quiet night, free of charge if dining in the restaurant.
The place is unique, a must see, even if coming just for a night drink with a dinghy

Bay Žukova

Anchorage: Suitable for anchoring between 6 to 12 meters.
Protection: Open to the north and northeast; caution advised in these conditions.
Amazing place for a lunch stop before heading to Jelsa or Stari grad

Zečevo

Features: Known for its rocky beaches and naturist-friendly areas.
Amenities: Beach club / restauraunt
Anchorage: Possible to anchor, 5-8 meters, but there are several free of charge bouys from the beach club. Great place for a lunch or a drink outside. Funky vibes but can get overcrowded with day trippers from Jelsa and Vrboska

Bay Pokrivenik

Anchorage: Several coves suitable for anchoring in approximately 6 meters of water.
Protection: Sheltered from all winds except from the north and northeast.
Facilities: Smaller yachts can berth alongside the pier on the eastern coast; best anchorage found in the southeastern part of the bay. Scenic swimm stop on the way to Sućuraj

The South Side of Hvar

Hvar Town – Elegant Chaos from the Cockpit

Hvar Town is Dalmatia’s crown jewel—the kind of place where ancient stone alleys echo with clinking glasses, and where your boat, even if modest, might end up moored between a 50m superyacht and a wooden gulet full of Australians in party mode. It’s as glamorous as it is chaotic, and if you know how to do it right, it becomes one of the most memorable stops of your sailing trip.

Mooring Options

Town Quay (Riva)

Water available but no electricity
Mooring lines (stern-to), very limited spots
Fully exposed to swell from ferry traffic and every passing RIB
Loud nightlife echoes off the stone walls until 2 AM
Not safe in Jugo; even in calm, swell can make for a miserable sleep
Booking strongly advised in season.

Anchorage in front of town

Possible only in calm weather, poor holding in places
Exposed to traffic and ferry wake
Risky for overnight stays
Mostly used for short stops or while waiting on a berth
The best option is to go over to Marina Palmižana

Life in Hvar Port: What to Expect

Once you tie up, it’s time to enjoy what Hvar does best: energy, history, food, and cocktails.
Stroll the old town: Venetian palaces, a wide marble promenade, and alleyways filled with small boutiques and wine bars.
Climb the Španjola Fortress (15 min walk) for sunset over the Pakleni Islands.
Water taxis line the quay to take you to Jerolim, Carpe Diem Beach, or Palmižana.
Provisioning: a small Konzum near the port, fruit stalls nearby, and bakeries open early.
Pharmacy, laundry, and ATM all within 200 meters of the port.

Where to Eat

Casual & Reliable

Stajun - Beautifull setting, great food | +385 91 915 4479
Black Pepper - In the heart of the old town, creative menu | +385 95 750 9790

Upscale & Refined

Giaxa – Housed in a 15th-century palace, modern Mediterranean | +385 21 741 073
Don Quijote - Sea food powerhouse | +385 91 171 7174

Bars & Nightlife

Ka’Lavanda Bar – Sunset cocktails, chic but not snobbish
BB Club – Lounge with a sea view, part of Riva hotel
Carpe Diem Bar (Town) – Pre-party hub; DJ from 22:00
Carpe Diem Beach Club (Stipanska) – After-midnight boat shuttle only. Wild, exclusive, loud.

Skipper’s Advice

Don’t dock in town to sleep unless you’re OK with noise, wakes, and movement.

Best approach: Moor at Palmižana, taxi in for the night, return for quiet sleep

If the weather forecast includes Jugo, skip the quay altogether

Book restaurants and berths in advance between July 10 and August 25

Southern coves of Hvar

Milna Bay (Kotin) – Organized & Underrated

Milna on Hvar (not to be confused with the Brač town) is a low-key but very handy stop for lunch or overnight, especially for crews heading toward Korčula.

Mooring: Organized buoy field in the western cove and managed by two restaurants:
Kotin | +385 98 907 352 – traditional seafood, family-owned. Probably the best place to find a big fish!
Moli Onte | +385 21 745 025 – local fare, simpler but good
Protection: OK from NW/NE, exposed to S and SE (avoid in Jugo)
Dinghy landing: Stone jetty at the beach

Skipper’s Note: Quiet, organized, with reliable food ashore. Very close to Hvar Town but far more peaceful. If you want to go to Hvar, it is just 10 minute via taxi van.

Zaraće – Two Bites of the Bay

This anchorage beneath dramatic cliffs is visually stunning, and on the small beach in the end, there are two restaurants, sharing a small buoy field.

Mooring: 10 buoys in total. Limited depth for anchoring safely; use buoys if possible
Restaurants:
Konoba Gego | +385 91 527 6493
Restoran Zorače East | +385 91 581 1369
Use: Ideal for a long lunch and swim; can overnight if no swell and wind is settled
Protection: Poor in Jugo; avoid in anything southerly

Skipper’s Tip: The food is not amazing in either of the restaurants, but it gives a Robinson Crusoe feeling.

Sveta Nedjelja – Wine, Caves & Character

Possibly the most fascinating village on Hvar’s south side. Below towering cliffs, this small settlement offers a surreal anchorage, a cave winery, and a sense of drama unlike anywhere else.

Mooring: Small quay of the Plenkovič winery for max 5 boats.
Anchoring not possible
Dining: Plenković Winery (Zlatan Otok) – Fascinating wine tasting & seafood meals | +385 91 321 0022
Good for lunches or overnight stay
Avoid in: Any southern wind; Jugo creates dangerous swell here
In the high season call ahead
Optional walk uphill to the upper village – steep but spectacular

Gambo Bay – The Hidden Gem

This lesser-known cove east of Sv. Nedjelja is one of the best-kept secrets on Hvar’s coast.

Mooring: 3–5 free buoys managed by the Gambo Restaurant
Very limited space, arrive by early afternoon or call ahead
Anchoring possible in 8 - 10 m, sand and weed, but not recommended
Dining: Gambo Restaurant – Traditional, scenic, and welcoming | +385 97 717 2381
Exceptional grilled fish, grilled shrimps, homemade wine, and relaxed service
Dine right in front of your boat, under olive trees
Protection: Good from W/NW - Avoid in Jugo – like all bays on this stretch

Skipper’s Note: Romantic and calm. One of the few places where you’ll feel you’ve "discovered something." Spend the night if the weather is settled.